Return journey

October 16th we started back down to Manali. The horses started down to a campsite at Sirius,  while Joe and I made a short trip up to a lake at 15,000 ft.

We spent a couple of hours at the lake enjoying the quiet and the view before heading down to join everyone else.

The snow started early and followed us down the valley, making for a slippery trail.

We took 3 days working our way back to the town of Manali, where we said goodbye to our porters and cook.

Summit day

October 15th should have been the day of our summit attempt, however the storm the previous night prevented this. We had also run out of fuel; the kerosene we had did not seem to be the best quality. We had no choice but to return to Basecamp. 

The morning was probably the clearest and hottest to date, so Joe and I did take a hike towards the gully that would be the final part of the route before the summit, just because.

After our hike we started the long journey down. Suffice to say that the fresh snow fall did not make the return to camp any easier.

we reached Basecamp at 4pm. We had reached 17,500 ft, but we’re just short of our goal.

Camp II

The following morning we woke to our first cloudy morning of the trip. I believed this was a sign of a change in the weather, and having been caught out in storms before, I wanted to go down. Joe however, being more of an optimist, wanted to carry on. Pat stayed neutral. We carried on after Joe made a heroic run down to ourStacie to retrieve some much needed extra fuel.

Once he returned we headed for the site of camp I I. 
Unfortunately we were again slower than hoped, and had to set up camp on a glacier short of our ultimate goal.
just to add to the fun, a storm did come in. We were hit by wind and hail. Again cooking outside was loads of fun.

Camp I for sure.

October 13th we packed the rest of our gear into our packs and made as early as possible of a start up the mountain. We have food for about 4 days, and what we hoped would be enough fuel, along with tents,  sleeping bags, climbing gear, etc.

We made slow progress uo the slope, grabbing a few items from our Stacie along the way. We did finally reach camp I just as the sun was setting.

We found a spot between the col and the top of the face to pitch our 2 man tent, into which we squeezed 3 people. The 1 benefit was that we were very warm that night. Unfortunately it had started to snow on us again, so cooking supper outside in the dark and cold and snow was not the greatest fun.


Camp I

October 12th, Pat, Joey an I, started up to leave a cache of gear at camp I, with the intention on moving up for the climb the following day.

we followed our previous route up to the glacier, at which pointpoint we roped up for the crossing.unfortunately, the weather had changed, and the morning sunshine was followed by afternoon snow. The fresh snow fall meant that we could not see any crevasses on the glacier, so we had to take more care than was probably necessary since this was a fairly inactive glacier.

After crossing the glacier we had to navigate the berscrund to get onto the slope above.


We left a couple of fixed ropes to make the following days ascent easier. We then continued up the face, but ran out of time. We left our gear about halfway up the face, short of our goal at the col.