October 15th should have been the day of our summit attempt, however the storm the previous night prevented this. We had also run out of fuel; the kerosene we had did not seem to be the best quality. We had no choice but to return to Basecamp.
The morning was probably the clearest and hottest to date, so Joe and I did take a hike towards the gully that would be the final part of the route before the summit, just because.
After our hike we started the long journey down. Suffice to say that the fresh snow fall did not make the return to camp any easier.
we reached Basecamp at 4pm. We had reached 17,500 ft, but we’re just short of our goal.
The following morning we woke to our first cloudy morning of the trip. I believed this was a sign of a change in the weather, and having been caught out in storms before, I wanted to go down. Joe however, being more of an optimist, wanted to carry on. Pat stayed neutral. We carried on after Joe made a heroic run down to ourStacie to retrieve some much needed extra fuel.
Once he returned we headed for the site of camp I I.
Unfortunately we were again slower than hoped, and had to set up camp on a glacier short of our ultimate goal.
just to add to the fun, a storm did come in. We were hit by wind and hail. Again cooking outside was loads of fun.
October 12th, Pat, Joey an I, started up to leave a cache of gear at camp I, with the intention on moving up for the climb the following day.
we followed our previous route up to the glacier, at which pointpoint we roped up for the crossing.unfortunately, the weather had changed, and the morning sunshine was followed by afternoon snow. The fresh snow fall meant that we could not see any crevasses on the glacier, so we had to take more care than was probably necessary since this was a fairly inactive glacier.
After crossing the glacier we had to navigate the berscrund to get onto the slope above.
We left a couple of fixed ropes to make the following days ascent easier. We then continued up the face, but ran out of time. We left our gear about halfway up the face, short of our goal at the col.
Once we arrived at Basecamp on the 10th, we started to organize ourselves, and to determine a route up the mountain. To that end, Joey and I set out on the 11th to establish a route up to the col that was the site of camp I.
The first part of the climb followed a rocky moraine that paralleled a glacier. We spent some time checking out different choices, and finally followed a slope up to the top of a rock buttress. At this point the route continued across the glacier. We went a short way onto the glacier, but since we did not have any gear with us we did not venture to far. We were however, fairly certain of the route to the slope leading to the col.
Our second day finished at 3800m and the temperature at night was definitely dropping. The weather was good with clear blue skies and sunshine. We had a guide, Avinash, a cook, Shyam, a cooks assistance Sanjay, and 3 horsemen. Each night the company and dining tent would be put up, and then 4 tents, 1 for each of us, and 1 for the Liason Officer, Zed.
There is lots of wild life, between the monkeys, the cows, the goats, the sheep, the horses, and the various birds, there is always something to catch your attention.
We reached Basecamp on the afternoon of the 10th October. It is located at 4200m next to a small lake surrounded by mountains. Down the valley we can look towards Manali, and up the valley Deo Tibba looks down on us.